How to Repair Car Dents
Learn how to repair car dents using paintless dent repair. Make sure to watch this video on repairing car dents.
Hello, I’m Martin Sadler from dent remover it in today’s repair. I’M going to show you all the methods that I use to repair car dents like this. So, if you’re a new technician or if you’re, really interested in how to repair car dents, I’m sure you’ll take something away from this video. Also, if you’re a potential customer looking to see how I operate, then this is the repair car dents video for you. So, let’s go and take a look at the damage in a bit more detail: …, Okay, taking a look at this bonnet and we can see that it’s had quite a decent impact. and it’s really distorted the top quarter of this panel. If we take a look at the damage with natural reflection, we can see that there’s a deep dent just underneath the body line. … The body line is also very badly damaged and, above this sits a large crown. This is pushing the extra panel material into the center of the bonnet, creating this hump. When a customer comes in to See us for an estimate, we like to get the inspection board out. This is so we can see the full extent of all the damage show. Any areas that are hiding and at least a customer knows all the areas that need repairing … and then, from this information, we can give a detailed estimate.
The paintwork condition on this panel isn’t the best there’s a few small chips and also has a white mark in the center of his car dent. But luckily that’s not chip and that’ll, just polish out. Okay, so I’ve seen all the areas of damage and now need to know what this panel is made from, is it metal or aluminum So with a magnet, we can easily check this …. Will it stick? No, so the panel is made from aluminum, and that means to me that repairing this car dent is going to be a little bit harder to remove than it would be if it was a metal bonnet. To repair car dents, I need to check for access, so if we lift up the bonnet and we’ll have a visual look to see if it’s any kind of holes or trims that we can remove to get some tools in behind that dent and from what we can see here. There’s a plate in the way and is two tiny holes, so I’m guessing that this will also be aluminum, we’ll check with a magnet …
Yes, the plate is also made from aluminum and this will be held in by factory rivets, so there’s no way of removing this plate. So, let’s take a look at these holes and we can see that there’s a hole roughly underneath where the damage is. We can lift the damage up in a nice and controlled way as long as there’s no internal obstructions like brackets and braces So starting the repair, I’m going to lift it up with the glue system and then once I’ve got the general shape I’ll go through. Of this hole using specialist bars – and I will finish off for repair using a sharp tip Easter egg – KEEP AN EYE ON MY WATCH TO SEE HOW LONG IT TAKES TO REPAIR. So HOW DID our customer get a dent like this? Well, it was sat in the car minding his own business and someone came along and tripped and what they did was this … Elbow straight onto the bonnet …? I bet they had a sore elbow … before I start the first glue pull just need to degrease it, because I’ve waxed the bonnet already just to get all the dirt off. I’M just going to give it give it a few squirts Gtechniq panel wipe and using a clean rag give it another go like I said I did wax it just to get all the stuff off earlier.
There we go sorted, Give the panel a warmup to get rid of any residue right. Let’s get a glue tab on there, so il start with a red glue, tab using Tabweld hot glue from a new pack, a big dollop of glue just underneath the body line and wait five to ten seconds for that to set il be using my new Ultra Dent Tools Slide hammer now il start warming it up just until the panel starts to distort and then bring the heat towards the tab.
Keep reading for more tips on how to repair car dents. Now that’s pulled a bit out. I’M going to go again. I’m going to go right on the body line this time with aluminum. When you warm it up, it goes cold quite quickly because it disappears the heat really quick, but it’s still quite warm. It’s a bit flexible, just check the edge of the glue it’s a bit tacky, don’t want it to go off all the way And I’ll do some gentle pulls this time, not just going yank it. Okay, it’s coming out, which is a good thing, a bit more just under the body line again, we’ve got a large crown just on the left-hand side of the body line. It’s well it’s the middle of the bonnet, so that was crown here, but don’t want to start tapping that about because I might not have too much access from the inside. So, I’m trying pull the low area out, so it drops naturally right okay.
Keep reading for more tips on how to repair car dents. So, I’m going to use a different tab, a Black Plague, tab large one usually takes everything out just placed under the body line. Again, this time I’m going to use a mini lifter and I can adjust the feet on this one. You can go a really wide like that. You can bring the feet right in and you get a more controlled pull, so just need to make it big enough, so we can get the tab through when we pull it. Otherwise, we will be pulling against the Feet, which isn’t very good wind. It right up & take up the slack and we’re going to give it a few lights, pulls light, pulls and then gradually and then pull it hard one more pull changing to a gangrene tab. These small crease tabs stick like crazy, not a lot of glue and the reason why I’m putting this one on is because where I’ve pulled it has come out, but then there’s a bit of a low and it’s more of a crease, so we’re going to match the crease with the tab and pull it out choices, choices, bring the feet in again and back it off a little bit. So, we can get the feet on and then we’ll adjust it around the tab. Bang on … then tighten it back up again. Then I’ll give it a pull. So, it’s coming out pretty good, go again with this same place. After this pull, we’ll have a look and see what it looks like … still needs a couple of seconds. I always put my fingers around the edge around there. I’ve got this little door, so I put the door on there, but I always put the finger on there because when I’m pulling, I don’t want to slip and if you slip, you’re going to scratch. The paint Ok let’s take a look.
Okay, I’m now at a point where it’s not moving anymore, so I’m going to start knocking the crown’s down now so going to start with its crown and then I’m going to finish off with that one. But it’s still going to be a low area around up body line area. This is absolutely solid. Now, so there is not a lot. That’s going to give until we address those crowns So hammer, I’m using is a blending hammer from Shane. Jack’s is my favorite hammer and the first knockdown I’ll be using is the one from CroCarb it’s got a domed leather head, and this is superb for knocking down all the crowned areas. The next knock down am using is from boss PDR and I’ve attached an R-4 cherry cap tip to the end again. This is great for knocking down crown areas. Okay, so all that tapping I’ve been knocking down the high areas and around this area it’s gone pretty. Well – and it is sitting slightly high around here – there’s a little bit there, so what I’m going to do is I’m going to glue pull this bit only up a tiny bit just to kind of get halfway between this part, which is how it should be, and That part, so not a lot, but just halfway and I’ll stick another glue tab on this area, but to be fair using a bar tool. Now I can get that up. No problem.
And then this area isn’t going to be too bad to repair either. Probably glue pull a little bit more around this area too, but yeah pull this area up halfway between this part and that part, and then we can tap that area down and blend it. All back in see all that bruising is gone now, … a little bit there, which is, I assume, it’ll, be from a brace where a bit of glue on holding it, but we’re not worried about …. We don’t worry about anything around here. That’s all we’ll! Just repairing this dent, because once this dent comes out all this should sit nice okay. So, we don’t worry about any of that, just a bit Using another small crease tab. It fits perfectly in that low area I’m going to use a mini lifter, because we want to lift it up to a certain area, I’m not using a slide on there because we’re going to be yanking it out. I want a more controlled pull. Okay, one more just again, not snappy pulls just gentle pulls you’ll, see it in the gap. Look this crown is proving quite difficult to reshape. This is because the aluminum doesn’t have a memory as such, whereas if it is a metal panel, if you tap it down or lift it up, it wants to go back to its original shape, and this is why aluminum repairs usually take a little bit longer to Repair and then metal panels warming it up just going to warm this area up and tap this area down. But what I need to do is need to keep some pressure on this part because, what’s happening at the moment, is when I’m tapping this area down. It’s doing that sorry we’ll try again …
So, tap this area down. It goes like that. … tap this area down. It goes like that, so we need to put pressure on there, so I’m tapping down goes way back and this stay where it is then again put pressure on here tap this bit and that bit will go in and this will stay there. Otherwise, you’re just doing that, you will see it rise in a second, so by placing a finger below the body line and applying pressure, we’ll lift up the area above a body line where I’m tapping now and then I can tap this area down. This will help me reshape the body line sharpen it up and lower the crown without it affecting all lifting up the lower area of this repair.
The reason why I keep rubbing the panel as well is just from when I was panel beating. We used to rub the panel’s instead of looking at it because with paintless dent removal, you’re looking at reflections with panel Beating you’re feeling, because there’s no reflections because you took all the paint work off. So, it’s not shiny, just full of filler …. So as well as looking with my eyes, I can feel where the dent is as well, so it’s telling me now that it’s high in this area, all this feels okay, this curve is okay, just starts to billow up around here and underneath it’s a bit high around There yeah so two ways of feeling the highs & the lows right then, let’s have a look review inspection board, so you can see to the right hand side of the body line at the bottom. That’s where I was just glue pulling a minute ago just to raise it up slightly then on the body line just to the right of a body line again, we’ve got this low area and a few more glue pulls with that, and it should straighten out a Little bit more but yeah, it’s looking really good. So far, just got a slight bulge there around there. It’s like a little semicircle, so we’re still a bit of a crowned area from the impact but, like I said further along the bonnet, it’s all straightened out itself. Look there, you go told you not to worry about any of that I’ll carry on okay, so I finished using the glue to pull the car dents out and I have to say it’s coming out really well so far. Now I’m going to change methods and I’ll start using the bars to secure the bonnet, I’m using an adjustable bonnet prop and a ratchet strap just going to find two decent holes and then pull the ratchet, strap nice and tight …. Now that the bonnets secure using the flag tip tool, a really strong one goes through the hole. The access hole right in there straight on to the damage and if I pull the flag tip tool out, that’s where my pivot point is so, even though it’s a small flag, tip tool, I’ve got a lot of leverage and you need to be pushing really hard On aluminum because it doesn’t like to move in the same way that metal does so, let’s go have a look, so just a couple of pushes and already that’s not suitable for it.
So, I’m going to try its Big Brother bit longer. I’M not going to be fouling against the wing now. The reason why I haven’t taken the bonnet off is because I know that I can repair it with the bonnet on. So, you know, that’s not a mega problem and if we keep the bonnet on, we’re, not going to affect any of the hinge bolts. So, I don’t need to take the bonnet off A question I got just recently from a viewer from one of my other videos. Was when you use in a bar, do you twist the car dents out OR do you push them out? So, this is a door bar? You are twisting the handle but you’re effectively pushing the car dents out. You might be scraping the back edge and been rubbing the back of the panel, but you are pushing and again with this. I know it’s a flag tip tool and you meant to be doing this, but when I’m pushing this car dent out, I’m doing that are just slightly to an angle, pushing out like that, so I’m not scratching it out like that, because you tend to find if you do, that on the flat panels and you’re putting a lot of pressure on their new twist in you might get it wrong if you get it wrong. You’re going to put a large high crease into the panel, and you don’t want that because it messes the job up and you tip usually finds where the crease was once you tapped it back down again, you’ll do it again and do it again. It’s totally unwanted work, so yeah don’t twist just push okay, so I’ll change from the flag, tip tool, … and I’ll, be using the Ultra Dent pick tool a large one, and this is really good for aluminum, because it’s sharp.
So, you need a sharp pick to get the aluminum up … and I’m going to use my favorite bar My homemade bar. It has a bit of Tessa tape on the end and I’m going to use this to push the center of the dent out. That’s right on the body line I’m not going to use any heat for this either. The knock down I’m using here is made from nylon. It’s a basic knockdown found in most starter kits and the tip on mine isn’t very sharp, so it’s ideal for general blending whereas this one is made from a different material in its called root beer, I sharpened the tip, so this is ideal for knocking down those micro high areas. Okay, let’s take another look with the inspection board and see how far I’ve got so far. It’s coming out really well so far, … just minimal distortion, but yes, it’s come out really well so far, I’m very happy with that right. Let me carry on so what I’m doing now is I’m just picking out all the tiny little areas. If you look at the paintwork carefully – and you can see, there’s orange peel so where the repair is its bit more quickly than the actual painted surface. So, I’m using a sharp pick using this one on the ultra-one, because both sharp and just spending quite a bit of time, just picking out all the micro lows, because we don’t want to be flatting and polish in this area where I need to polish it because there’s a few scratch marks from the tap down, but I aren’t going to be nibbing & flatting it down, so the paintwork is going to stay as it is, so it just takes quite a long time to take out all the little micro lows, so I carry on.
Some vehicles have a lot more orange peel on the paintwork than others …, for example, BMWs and Mercedes. This isn’t a bad thing. It just means that the paintwork is thick, so it can be difficult to recognize micro lows from orange peel. So, this final stage in the repair does take quite a long time, because you got a carefully pick out all the small lows: cross-checking, the repair again and again, to give our customer the best possible finish. Okay. So, this is the finished results. I just need to polish this area because there’s some scratch marks where I’ve been tapping … but I’ll. Just let you have a quick look before I polish that area up, I’m not going to flat it down with any kind of sanding paper or anything like that. It’s this is how it is. I think that looks super-duper. Looking from this angle, from all different angles should be seen some distortion on those lines, not hiding anything I’ll, have a look with the Natural reflection in a second ok let’s look with natural reflection using the light above going side to side using a skylight just below the body line, so looking very good, I’ll go nice and slowly as well. So, you can see all the orange peel and that’s all the fine dots in the paintwork I’ve pretty much replicated with a sharp pick I’ll go really close, so you can see the actual repair there, one more pass with the fluorescent tubing there.
We go I’ll polish up now, so that’s the dent done now, and we just need to take a look at this hole. That’s the hole we went through, there’s one on the other side as well, I’m going to tidy this up and then touch it with a bit of black and put some wax oil on it. … This hole, straightener is from Keco tools. You need the mini lifter to use this, but it’s great for straightening up any areas where you’ve had to lever off to do the repair.
Okay, so just before we take a look at the finished results, I’d just like to say a big thank you for watching my video. So far. If you have enjoyed, it would be great to thumbs up. I hope you enjoyed this video on how to repair car dents. Also, you’re welcome to leave a comment below if you didn’t enjoy it, don’t be shy, just tell us why if you subscribe to the channel already, that’s absolutely superb and if you haven’t subscribed already, it would be great to get you onboard because it really does help. My channel grows …, so that’s it for now, thanks for watching Cheers.