There’s another method that you can do in bodywork that doesn’t require painting, and that is take the deer hair and pull it off. You that’s better. So here we have a Honda Pilot, it’s the 2007, not that it matters. This could be anything hit, a deer, the deer ran in front of it. This way and the back end of the deer is the owner tells me hit this part, and this is where most all the damage happened. When you look at the fender, you can see a little high spot or a crease here and when you open the door it barks, because it’s not the same, reveal all the way down. It gets a little bit narrow right here.

You see a little bit of a chip, so we’ve got a dent here and then there’s also some damage here. If I get out a wide panel, you can see the dent a little better, but you can see that there’s a dent right here and right here and that the reveal is a little bit too big right here. I know that there’s an exit before where the hood was replaced, and this hood is not an exact cap of fit or cap, is like certification for auto parts aftermarket. Let me show you a little something PDR here. This is just going to, be a real brief thing. There’s two ways to do: PDR, paintless, dent removal and the two ways are either pulling from the paint that’s stuck to whatever it is, whether it be deep bevel, any one of those things or even aluminum. You can glue something to it and then pull from this side or you can use a tool and push from the back side.

So, for this, what I would do is I’ve pushed from the back side because they have easy access. Oh, there’s a big gaping hole. So, I’m going to show you what that yeah. Let’s show you something inside first and then we’ll do that. So, as we look inside, you can see that there’s some damage to the structural member here you can see that the paint’s busted off, because it’s pinched. So, if this were a body panel like a fender or a door or something, you’d have to do paint because the paint’s removed, but because it’s behind here we are going to, do paint we’re not going to. Does it real pretty we’re basically going to use a white engine paint on it? You can see that this supporting member is also push back.

That’s made to take some impact. You see that the bumper is pretty much okay, there’s no foam where they’re supposed to be foam in here. I think that was going to begin with, but we’re going to pull these back using a polar which, which is basically you, can get a slight hammer that does the glue. This is an old school. Well, this is kind of mid school. You’ve got a weld stud gun, it puts the pins to the sides, we’ve collapsed in and then you pull them out with that. So, I’ll be doing that on this later in a different video, but basically just pull that out and then pull this forward. So, let’s get back to it, I just it’s harder to show you what’s behind that once I do this, and this goes so quick now you can do this work with various tools.

This is a pry bar that I’ve polished down and trimmed and heated with the torch and basically made it fit the way I want to you see where the old handle was, and then I also did the other side of it, so it doesn’t get my hand And I can also use this if occasion requires there’s some other PDR tools. You can see that these are basically rods of different lengths and thicknesses, and then this one’s been tapered.

As you can see here, I got some black gaffing tape on the end of this one just to prevent scratching and then there’s even these little itty bitty teeny ones that can get way in there and you can twist them and manipulate them with these handles. But what I’m going to do here is just use my hand. So just like those tools are usually just put your hand behind here and I’m going to support the bumper a little bit sound like an old man. Don’t support the bumper a little bit and just push here and push there and just kind of work it massage it. If you really want good results, you can leave it out my sunshine.
A lot of this will come out or you can use a heat gun. I can see there’s a depression here, so you heat it going in circles, work it to the middle and then back out again it’s kind of do that, while you support it back out like that, and it’ll take a memory with the heat. Unfortunately, this bumper torn here it really got worked over well, so we’re going to end up having to replace this. There are methods that you can do to repair it, but sometimes there’s so many expensive to replace that it’s better to just do that, so we’re going to get a bumper peanut place this, but we will do some of that PDR stuff on the fender here.

That’s the video for today it’s just kind of a brief overview. You can pull from the outside by using different little kits hey. This is an example of a glue kit and you’ve got these different tabs that you glue on and then you’ve got a mini lifter that you can lift it with. This is not an awfully expensive kit, so that pulls things out and makes a high spot, and then you can go back over it with a plastic hammer or with a little tool like this with a soft tip and then aluminum head. That’s really easy to make good contact with and get a good straight hit. This kid came with a little plastic okay.

This is a better one and they’re a lot better ones available on the market. That’s how you pull a knockdown and then, of course, in the kit. You’ve got a running board. So, this is the line board and basically a shiny white. Oh, and you look at the reflection of the lighting board and it tells you in their reflection, if you’re on or off where’s the got a little suction stuff and a grill about type thing for it anyway. There’s a lot that you can do with this. So as far as time but budgeting 50 % of your time is the last five to ten percent of the dent and then the first 50 %. It looks like you just cruising and booking, but the key is patience being patient with a dad makes all the difference in the world.

I hope you enjoyed this video on learning paintless dent repair.