PDR Dent Repair on Decklid
Interested in PDR dent repair? Watch this video and learn how to remove dents on a decklid. It’s not easy but these dents can be repaired.
Hello, world VBR, coming at you here with a 2017 BMW, x5, a collision. This is something well, it was in a parking lot. Somebody must have backed into it or maybe hit it with a full shopping cart, but it looks like it. It has a little stuff in the paint, so it was hit with some sort of tall bumper or vehicle. This is one of these ones that we’re going to go for as good as we can possibly get, obviously, but definitely didn’t promise the customer any kind of expectation of a hundred percent because of the stretched metal in this one. So, you can see, I’m get got it warm here, I’m feeling up the temperature.
It seems to be about them. Eighty or ninety right now, which I kind of want to just keep it at. We are out in nature in a garage with the door open kind of the way I work. A lot of the time got the heat gun getting warmed up, but before I go to town with the heat gun and make some pulls right through the middle. Here I want to break down some of this eyebrow. It’s all the way around the outside of this stand. So, at this point in the PDR dent repair videos, when I say I sure do appreciate everybody that clicked on this video, I really do if you guys wouldn’t mind hitting the subscribe button, it sure helps out the channel now.
What I’m doing here is basically right. There tightens up on those lines, just love it if need be, keep it warm. I’M probably going to beat on it like this for about five or ten minutes. So, I don’t know if we’re going to keep you in for the speedy or not, but I don’t want to just grab a blue pull-tab right now and just yank that sucker, because it’s going to tighten up this brow. First things: first release the tension. Okay, guys move back. All I’ve done basically is tap some of these brows down. Obviously, I’m keeping it warm move to get a grip strong arm exhale over – and this is all taken apart inside here – and I’ve got the door shut, so this panel is removed.
I know it’s kind of tough for you guys to see, but I can basically get my tool in here then get right up to this hand find it here. We are I’m seeing my angles here. I haven’t even really checked. I mean I checked that crease with my hand, but they didn’t check out system is squishy, so I got squishy in there and I’m looking to see where I’m at and I’m going to actually have to reach in here, filled with my hand where we’re at and It feels like I’m right on it, but I just have very little leverage it’s kind of tight, so I’m going to see if I can nope, I can’t make the right push.
So, I think what I’m going to do is get the meat of it out the glue pulling, and I think I can make the right push if I come in, maybe from this side I don’t know, let’s let that cool a little bit. Let’s make a nice glue pull on it and I think we’re going to use is the big tab right here. Come right across huh yeah, I’m going to start off with a creased tab. Right now, we’ve got the tab, weld gray, glue non prep surface. I just realized; I didn’t hit it with any stuff. Let’s turn this down a little bit: let’s grab my slide hammer and give this just a nice tug, ah see non prep surface and let’s prep it because that was kind of a noob move, but we show the reels on PDR dent repair here.
So, when I say the prep surface, I just means that I hate it with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol clean any surface stuff off. Let me grab that same exact tab that I just had just one like this and go right across with our butane powered heat gun. Tab weld glue give it a couple of seconds before I push it right in, and I’m going right for the center of that. Now, let’s see give it a couple of seconds before I give it a nice pull, I give it a pull first and then I start tapping with this. If we have the nice adhesion, I want to know it by putting tension on that slide hammer and then giving it, a good pull and we’ve got to use, probably the strongest tabs we can we’ll see if this thing is the right temperature.
I think our problem right here is temperature yeah. I think our problem is temperature. I don’t know if it’s that the panel is not warm enough or not or too warm. I think I think it needs a little bit more heat and I also need to pull a little bit here brow. What I’m going to do here is: let’s try putting the glue on really fast instead of letting it dry. I think you know what the problem might be is that this heat gun this glue gun might not be getting that glue that hot, so we do have the other glue gun.
We can use yeah. This one is not really getting at that hot. It just seems like it’s either that or we got to go to the black glue. So, I think what I might do right here guys is switch my tools up around get the black glue in the gun and try another couple glue pulls with the black glue, because this just doesn’t seem to be working. Let’s pull one more and just show you what I’m talking about here, just it just doesn’t seem to be getting hot enough. Maybe it’s the problem with this gun, I mean that’s the temperature that it takes to get the glue on the car moved a little bit, but I think this I might want to just go with the black glue.
Worst-Case scenario we just get in there with the bars and start working out some of this area either way we’re going to come back and show you a little bit of work while we’re doing it and then we’ll come back and show you the end result in just a bit: okay guys, I thought I’d bring you in for a couple of pulls here. The access behind it is tight, so we switch to the blue glue. I think I’m going to slide pull this back one, the bottom one. I’m going to slide, pull both of them because of the angle moved a little bit didn’t, have a great secure tab on that one. But that’s okay, yeah that bottom one moved a little bit.
I’ve tapped down some more of the brows, I’m just getting whatever. I can with this glue because, as I say this let me go that direction. As I say, the UH make sure my microphones are on and everything the access in between even with that panel off is only like that much so I can’t really fit my tool in there. My thicker try Bend tool in there and really give it a lot of movement. I could probably get the tip of orange in there a lot, which is what I got here, and I can just slide down there and get you know from here down to get the rest of it up. I don’t know. Maybe I’m going to have to use either some more glue pulling or a j-hook that comes down and goes back up, but either way we’re going to just keep on this one.
Until it’s out, I would say I have you know, done almost zero percent. Now I mean they’re like yeah, I’ve got a little bit of the brows out gotten a little bit of this meat out, but without making any pushes. Yet this is what we’re doing with the glue. So, I’ll just show you one last little glue pull right here. I’M just going to keep on going for the meat. Let’s turn it this way, let’s line it in nice and hard fairly quickly grab the lifter and come in from underneath.
Ah, I felt it release yeah. I don’t know if it’s the temperature or maybe that one just wasn’t the surface, wasn’t prepped properly on that tab. So, let’s do that one more time and then we will just come back here, if not showing you some tooling, we’ll just come back to you and show you the end result, but definitely the tooling is going to happen. I’M going to have to get my tool in there and move some that metal. Let’s go right up to that center.
Give it a nice solid push in there five seconds, maybe 10 seconds to dry, come on in with the lifter and secure it slow, pull yeah like say we moved a little bit of metal but, like I said guys, I think what we’re going to do is Get a little bit of more of these brows out. Let’s get that stuff off! There glue comes right off and then we’ll get a little bit more of these brows out. I might even make a couple more glue pulls on the top here, we’ll get in with the tools get this nice and cleaned up, and we might even have a speedy compilation for you on this one and then come back to you and show you the end.
Result in just a bit: okay, guys, here’s what we ended up with definitely not perfect. I told the customer 65 to 70 %. I don’t know if we really got it there once it started, making some funky push marks. I had to stop because the tension in that metal was so high. We got most of that dent out. I’d say: yeah, a good 65 70 percent. The top edge still has a little bit of a dent to it, and it has this underneath a plastic guard, that’s supposedly a sound proofing that I could not get underneath. So, I basically had to make my few little bits of pushes on the top stop with that one jewel. So, if you guys like what you see here nests up with like other than that I’ll just say the thing this has been PDR dent repair masterpiece.
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