Hey: what’s up everybody, it’s Mike Toledo! I appreciate everybody who’s out. There, who’s been subscribed to me if you guys got any questions. Please email me, 10th time at gmail.com. This video is kind of like a little small preview about what I’m going to be explaining in depth on my next DVD called glue poll practicals. If any of you guys have any questions, please email me dent time at gmail.com subscribe comment, good or bad. You know. I don’t take it personally so anyhow. I hope you guys really like this, and I’ve got some new ones coming out so check it out. Thanks a lot guy. Bye-Bye, hey!

What’s up everybody, it’s Mike Toledo, we’re going to go, do a glue pool on another wall. It’s a GMC Yukon, pretty good debt, good crease across the front, fender kind of like the one. We just ordered this one video you just saw earlier, so we’re going to check this out and see how well we can do on this. One we’re going to test these new blue tabs too, as well that you can find on auto lecture comm. One thing about working with creases is that it’s like fold a piece of paper than trying to iron the lineup. You must be exact at your tool tip pushes you have to use the certain type of tools to get that last bit out basically increases like a long pit door Ding like your date like a deep crease dent, has a center pit.

Well, imagine a crease having a continuous pit going all the way across. That’s what creases are full or about, and that’s why I think a lot of technicians have a hard time with deep creases. Even myself. I have hard time with pieces once a while. It just depends on how sharp that crease dent is, but the technique you got to use is going to depend on the tools. You cannot push your crease out with one type of tools. You can do it, but you can have a really hard time. It’s not going to probably come out as clean.

You need to produce different, smaller tips when you, when you’re finishing deep creases, not bare metal tips, are sharp, sharp metal tips. You could crack the paint specially if you miss push, but I have some tips so check it out. I will get into that too, as well. You, okay, that was a pretty good dad came out pretty well. I went up underneath the fender to finish half of it. I went through the side of the defender and then cross-checked it looked up underneath it looked high level across it and then buffed it out good to go no sandy involved in that I try not to sand hardly at all. I’M try about 95 % of my dent repairs.

There’s no sanding, no color sanding! Okay! I always want to avoid that, if I can, if possible, not safe for the guys who do it, who are taught that from the beginning, it’s just I prefer not to color sand. I think it has a lot to do with the type of tool you’re using if you use sharp tips, you’re going to put Michael highs in it and that’s what makes it hard to get rid of that unless you sand. So that’s why I use the different tool tips with plastic caps or by the tool protecting it at all times. So, there you have it thanks for riding along with Dent Time, have a good one, everybody and see on the next one. I hope you enjoyed this video on deep crease dent repair.